There are some cities which are
regal, some cities which are vibrant, some methodical beyond imagination but
there are those rare cities where stepping out on the streets makes you realize
that a new world power is emerging. I have never been to any city in the
developed world of the West but my travels have taken me across the orient and
the so called emerging economies and never have I felt what I felt the moment I
stepped into Shanghai.
Nothing in Shanghai at first sight
is unique, but the combination of modern architectural miracle with a Nation’s
ambition is something worth mentioning. The skyscrapers look as majestic as
they should and they fit their role as the future beehive of the financial
world. Around 1990, China proclaimed that Shanghai would be the focus city and
they developed Pudong. For years, the vacancy rates of the buildings at Pudong
were alarming and yet as it expected of a culture dating back thousands of
years, the Chinese waited. And the millennium got Shanghai what it hoped to
achieve. The world set up shop in Pudong.
I stood on The Bund on a cold,
rainy December evening, freezing to my bones and I beheld a Skyline beyond
anything I have ever seen. Dubai and Singapore looks like mere child’s play
with Lego blocks in front of The Bund. The TV Tower, the high rises and the
river all come together in what can be termed as impressive but not majestic.
This is what George Lucas showed in Star Wars as his city of the future. This
is how cities will look like. I remember a young boy I had met once, who had
honestly dreamt of urban city planning as a civil engineer. He wanted to build
cities. The boy is no more. (Well, he is very much alive and happy but he’s a
different man like most of us now.) But if he was still alive in some distant
dream, he would be able to wonder at what has been achieved in Shanghai beyond
just the financial buildings and the multilevel flyovers. However, the curse of
urbanization remains evident with people cooping up in pigeonholes just like
they do in every metropolis across the world.
I love Mumbai. One of my best
memories will remain sitting on the steps of the NCPA and watch the Queen’s
Necklace light up as the sun sets on the Western Coast of India. But as much as
I romanticize with my Mumbai memories, possibly the only road worth mentioning
in the city is what an average side street in Shanghai looks like. As the cold
biting wind hit me with its gusts of spine chilling rains, I saw Pudong light
up in the night. And I knew I was looking at a Nation that in all probabilities
will dominate the world in the years to come and it will not even need the help
of the world’s largest army. On how many buildings on Marine Drive would you
see the Indian tricolour flying? Once the awed foreign tourist turns back from
The Bund, she will see another line of magnificent buildings all proudly
displaying the National Red Flag.
With Power come problems. And
Shanghai’s dark underbelly is as active as any other city’s. Whether you are a
tourist at Pudong or on Nanjing Road walking around what claims to be
Shanghai’s Times Square, you will be accosted by pimps and prostitutes. Like
many other cities, prostitution is illegal and your hotels will have big
warning signs and just like many other cities the police turn a blind eye.
Apart from that, there are the
standard scams that are characteristic to a city. If you are spotted as a
single tourist, someone will come up to you and offer to take your photograph.
Once she has started a conversation with you, she will then offer to show you
around as she “loves to talk to people from other countries”. Since hearing flawless English is rare,
people often fall for the student so willing to help. Then you will be invited
for a cup of tea and before you know, the bill is at least 500 Yuan.
Shanghai amazed me. But Shanghai
can’t be completed over four nights. It requires going back. It requires another
indulgence over a hotpot and another post over the food.
2 comments:
There is much more to Shanghai. But still, good writing.
And the comparison with Dubai so as to belittle it is a bit unfair. Lego blocks, seriously?
Dubai is an architecture marvel in itself. The world's top archi companies work there.
Its an incorrect projection of Dubai in a single line.
Of course.. It's a huge city... I want to explore it more.
But can't agree on Dubai. I never felt awed by it. And also I am always prejudiced against metrolois which does not have a public transport system or hail down cabs or pedestrian walkways.
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