Over the years, the debate has
been on. Which is the best mango around the world. India loves her mangoes. We
produce the world’s highest number of mangoes and export as little as we can
since we just eat up most of our produce. I love such passion.
No one can be more passionate
about mangoes than Bengalis. And Bengal knows her mangoes. Any true Bengali
will tell you that only 2 districts in this world produce the world’s best
mangoes. Malda and Murshidabad. Everyone else is just a hopeful imposter.
Ever since I was a child, I have
been well trained to identify mangoes and their unique tastes. Even though we
fall in the category of the “Mango People” or the commoners, in terms of mango
we developed rich and cultivated tastes. Every year we would start in early
May, getting irritated with every bite of the first batch of mangoes that would
come to Calcutta. Suddenly, people would remember long lost relatives in
Murshidabad and Malda. In fact legend has it that I was given away in marriage
after strong evidence of Ze Wife’s Grandma’s outstanding culinary skills in
making mango pickle. Though this theory is strongly refuted by all.
And that’s not surprising. I
remember the day when I was sent off to far away Muzaffarpur, both my grandmas
called me up to say that I was going to the land of litchis!!! No farewell, No “take
care of yourself”, not even, “Don’t get married without letting us know!”.
Plain and simple I was told of litchis. Only later while I had worked on Foods
for a long period of time, I realized the importance of provenance.
So I grew up in the summer months of
Calcutta eating everything possible that can be made of mangoes in various
stages of ripeness. Apart from the whole mangoes, there were pickles, chutneys,
sherbets, sweets, puddings, custards and even lentils!!! It was perhaps the
only time a self-respecting Bong Household would serve something other than
Rosogolla and Fish Fry when people came unannounced.
And as a child, every single year I
waited for the Himsagar to arrive!
Last year was the first year of my
life when I did not have Himsagar. Maybe it was work, maybe it was an effort to
like Alphonsos and treat Badami with some respect that made me wait for
Himsagar till I found the entire West of India has not even heard of them. In
fact, Langras are also a rarity. Then one day, I found this one vendor from Bihar
who said, “Sir, aap jaisa aam ke samajhdaar kahan milte hain aajkal? Yahan log
sirf yahan ke aam hi khate hain” He did sell me litchis at a fleecing price of
10 USD per KG but then if you are called a connoisseur, you end up paying!!!
Ze Wife has the bloodline to
understand mangoes. So with her for the last few years we have gone ahead and
tasted mangoes from outside India. And we feel today like the protagonist of
The Alchemist! The Thai mangoes are good only with the sticky Jasmine rice. The
ones from Cebu (in the Philippines) are passable at best, and the lesser said
about the Chinese varieties, the better. Today my sister started crying on FB
saying my niece has to satisfy her love for mangoes with Mexican mangoes which
are pretty sour. Can you beat that? Mexican? I am still in shock. So after travelling
around the world, and eating almost everything of note except the Spanish
mangoes, I have decided it is Himasagar that my heart desires.
Even after this realization, this
year, we took it upon ourselves to try every variety of mangoes available in
Mumbai but nothing seems to satisfy. Lalbag, Totapuri, Alphonsos, Badami,
Kesar, Dasheri, nothing!
Today we finally found some decent
langras. And as we were biting into the softness and the sweetness, the evil
plan was hatched. Do you know which is the only district that can come close to
Malda when it comes to Himasagar? The answer my friend is Rajshahi. And I shall
say no more.
